You have two options here. If you are lucky enough to have a DB19 to DB25 DuoDisk Drive cable, you can simply solder on a female DB25 jack and you’re good to go.
Or you can wire up your own cable using the 2.54mm 9p header J2. The pinout is as follows:
|SmartPort||DB19 pin||J2 pin|
I’ve have good luck with the ~$2 Chinese clones, but I would suggest flashing it first before soldering to the board. Sometimes you do get a bad unit, or a unit that hasn’t been flashed with the boot loader and requires you flash it yourself via the ICSP headers.
Make sure it’s a 16Mhz ATMEGA328P board running at 5V.
This is the common push-push Micro SD module with level shifters. Sometimes it may say “Catalex” (maybe the original designer?) on the back of the PCB. You will need to remove the pre-soldered right angle header they all seem to come with so you can mount it upside down on the shield board.
C1 is a bulk storage capacitor for the 5V rail. It is optional since the Arduino already has caps on-board, but if you have a marginal SmartPort 5V line or experience other power issues, they could help stabilize the overall board. Any value between 10uf to 47uf is fine.
Either 1/4W or 1/8W can be used in all locations.
R1 is the pull-down resistor for the eject button. Anything from 1K to 10K is probably fine here.
R2 through R6 controls the activity and active partition LED brightness. A good calculator is at:
if you want to use something other the 470 ohm spec on the board. Just don’t exceed 20ma.